Pamukkale: Ancient ruins, calcium baths, and flesh eating fishies

After leaving Cide on July 28^th I began my fifteen day vacation in Turkey, I had my itinerary remotely planned, knowing what places I wanted to visit but kept the trip very flexible. I used the typical tourist guidebooks, but also took much advice from friends and co-workers who are familiar with the area and spoke to as many of the locals I could about what the best places to visit were. I knew I wanted to see as much as I could, and get as authentic of an experience as possible in a short amount of time. I wanted to walk the line of not wasting a moment, while not exhausting myself to the point of not being able to enjoy and really take in everything around me.

I was feeling entirely drained and quite stressed out with the last week of work on the project just over, and after I said goobye to Michele in the Ankara bus station it really hit me, I was doing this alone! Was I crazy? My mood that night certainly wasn’t ideal, and I really wasn’t sure what I had gotten myself into. I arrived at 1:00am at the Denizli Otogar (bus station) which is about a half hour outside of Pamukkale which was my first destination. The dolmus (shuttle busses) had long stopped their service to Pamukkale so I had to find a taxi to take me to my hotel. Although, I first needed to see if I could fix a bus ticket situation I had encountered in Ankara. I wanted to leave for my next destination on the 31^st, but had gotten the only ticket could find online which was on the 30^th. I found out later that if you book the bus in person from the town of departure they almost always have extra seats saved for last minute sales, so although I was able to get the correct bus, I had much difficulty trying to refund my old ticket. I spent an hour arguing with a very rude Metro Turizm employee before trying to find a taxi. The cab ride was a bit nerve wracking as it was now almost 2:00 and I was driving alone with a language barrier through unlit streets for twenty minutes. Finally I arrived to my hotel, was ripped off majorly by the cabby who tried to charge me 60Lira. Exhaustion couldn’t begin to describe what I felt, I was led to my room and passed out instantly.

The next morning, after allowing myself to sleep in for the first time in weeks, I began my first real day of vacation in Pamukkale. Pamukkale is truly a magical place, the village itself is small with only a few blocks, but it is a huge tourist attraction and a UNSESCO world heritage site. It is famous for its historical and geological wonders, and is the perfect place for a history nerd like me to explore while still feeling like I’m on a real vacation with sun, bikinis, and water. Many people come to Pamukkale as part of organized day trips, but I don’t think you can get the real Pamukkale experience in just a few hours, and so I allotted three full days to explore. This allowed me to see all I wanted to see historically at the necropolis, Hierapolis, and Laodicea, while still being able to put in good hours swimming in the sun and enjoying the tavertines. I am glad my vacation began here, as some time to relax was exactly what I needed and my spirits were instantly lifted. I was in absolute awe my entire stay.

I began the day with a walk to the tavertines which was just minutes from my hotel. It looked like I was approaching a mountain of snow and ice, and at the very top I could faintly make out stone ruins. Up until this time I was unaware that the famous Hieropolis was actually located at the top of the tavertines! At the base of the tavertines, referred to as the Cotton Castles, was pools and resort patio bars with gardens. I passed these and began to walk up the cotton castles. It was an entirely surreal experience walking barefoot up the hard white calcium formations with warm spring water pooling at my feet. It was absolutely packed with other tourists, and it took me a long time to find a dry spot to place my belongings so I could wander into one of the pools. The water was warm and shallow but clean because of the constant spring flow. It's cloudy white due to the calcium, and the calcium silt at the bottom of the pools is great for your skin. Many people were using it as a scrub and letting it dry on their skin in the sun, I gave this a try and my skin has never felt so smooth. For thousands of years this place has been noted for its healing properties and used as a natural spa. I was just in love with the place and spent the entire morning and afternoon relaxing and bathing in the sun just like Cleopatra herself did here.

Bathing in the calcium tavertine pools

Later I wandered up to the top of the tavertines where the grass begins again and I was able to put on shoes and see immediately the massive ruins of Hierapolis, an old Greco-Roman city. It was an odd sight to see swarms of tourists walking through the ruins still in their bikinis, conservative Turkey has been sheltering me the past six weeks. I was just amazed at the size of the site, and was impressed with the beautiful gardens, water fountains, tables and benches, and pathways with information stands. It really was a beautiful example of how to present sites of this manner to the public, they even had easily accessible with shuttles that drive by to take you to different parts of the site for those not able to make the hike. I began walking through the necropolis (which means dead city, and has over a thousand tombs and sarcophagi). Most of the tombs are Hellenistic, but there are later Roman and early Christian burials as well. The necropolis is the largest of its kind in Turkey, and gives a fascinating look at burial trends and socio-economic status. It features common burials, decorative marble and limestone sarcophagi, grave stele, large housed tombs, round tumulus mounds with vaulted chambers inside (I was very excited to see these!). I spent two hours or more walking through this area as well as the colonnaded walkway, the basilica ruins, and some other smaller structures. Some of the ruins are built out of travertine blocks and sparkle in the sun. Really some of the most impressive and beautiful ruins I have seen! I can’t imagine trying to see and appreciate it all in one day. I was exhausted and on the verge of sunstroke by midday and so I decided to leave the rest of the site for another day after a quick visit to the small finds museum which had beautiful ceramics and also some stele. One my way home I was stopped by some local ladies who insisted I sit with them on their cushioned patio for tea and a chat, Pamukkale is such a friendly town and since it is so small I soon had many familiar faces to talk too. When I arrived home I went online, only to find out in an article on my homepage (an archaeology news website) that the tomb of Saint Philip the Apostle was uncovered exactly where I had been just hours earlier!

Necropolis

Sarcophagi

Hierapolis Ruins made from tavertine blocks

Small finds museum, beautiful ceramics!

Day two I decided to check out another important ancient city, Laodicea, which is only ten kilometers outside Pamukkale. Although a smaller site than Hierapolis, the ruins still covered a huge amount of space and were equally as beautiful and well preserved. However, there was one key difference: Hierapolis had hundreds and hundreds of tourists, while just a ten minute drive away at this relatively unknown site I was the only person there! It wasn’t mentioned in a single tourist guide book, and I only knew the name from my religious studies background, as this is where Apollinairus was Bishop and began his theological debates on the nature of Christ which landed him in a lot of trouble and caused an ecumenical council. The place is also mentioned in Revelations in the Bible as one of the seven churches of revelation, referred to as the lukewarm church whose belief is neither hot nor cold. The site included a church and basilica, as well as two Hellenic theaters. The ruins were truly breathtaking and also many were made of the sparkling white travertine blocks. One highlight for me was the glass floor that covered one area of the excavation, I was able to walk above and look down at broken columns and ruins, while at the same time having a beautiful view of the valley below and the Cotton Castles off in the faint distance. It was a peaceful trip, as I wandered though the ruins alone for hours. I had some issue at first with the security guard who at first was very friendly and took a few pictures for me, but later became a nuisance, following me until I asked him to leave, later bringing me drinks, trying to get me to meet his friends, and asking me to kiss him. Nice try buddy…

Baptistry!

Laodicea Ruins

I had managed to get a ride to Laodicea with a friend of the hotel staff, but had to take a shuttle bus back. It was near impossible to flag the dolmus down, and when I did he took me to the wrong direction. Thankfully my phrase book came in handy and I was able to switch dolmus and go back to where I needed to be. I spent the rest of the day relaxing at my hotel, and after a delicious Korean supper (the hotel manager’s wife is Korean and makes delicious meals for the guests… a much appreciated switch up after a fairly repetitive Turkish diet) I decided to set out again for another adventure. I returned to Pamukkale’s Cotton Castles, which are opened 24 hours, and watched the sunset over the calcium formations and the ancient ruins, breathtaking! Really words can’t describe how beautiful and peaceful it was; I managed to find a quiet location with the perfect view. Once the sun was down lights lit up the tavertines and I laid in the spring baths until I was nearly falling asleep. Day two of the perfect vacation completed.

The sun setting over the Cotton Castles

Tavertines at night!

I awoke on day three nice and early to pack my bags, I left my luggage with the hotel staff and checked out of my room. However, I had until ten that evening to finish my Pamukkale explorations before my bus for Cappadocia left. I began to walk up the Cotton Castles again, as there were still parts of Hierapolis I had yet to explore. As I walked up I began chatting to some older men who were interested in my archaeological studies. I had told them I was hoping to meet the archaeologists currently working on site, which was why I was up so early in the day. We discovered that the archaeologists were working at the other side of the tavertines and they kindly drove me to where they were. Unfortunately it was a day off for the archaeologists, but the men insisted I go to the museum with them where we could meet some of the permanent staff. Next thing I knew I was drinking tea in a museum office trying to keep up with Turkish translations. Everyone was very nice, but I really had no idea what they were saying or what was going on. Finally I politely escaped, said goodbye to my new friends and headed up the hill to see the rest of the ruins at Hierapolis.

Hierapolis means Sacred City and it played a religious role through many decades. In Hellenic and Roman times it was the sacred home to many temples, and it also played an important role in biblical and early Christian times. First I explored the Nymphaeum, the Temple of Apollo, and then the Plutonium (place of Pluto the god of the underworld) which was a carbon dioxide filled cave that was believed to be the entrance to the underworld since everyone who walked in immediately died of gas poisoning. Temple priests would hold their breath and walk into the cave to prove their divine protection to crowds who would then pay to hear their oracles from the priests. I continued my hike in the heat up to where the amphitheatre/gymnasium was. Besides the two ampitheatres I saw the previous day in Laodicea which were badly preserved, this was my first real look at a roman theatre and it was a surreal experience as I have read and seen countless texts on them throughout my life. My first thought was why didn’t I come here to watch the sunset last night? I was astounded at the great preservation, and how small it makes you feel. I have been continually told, however, that this is nothing in comparison to Ephesus or Pergamum which I unfortunately will not have a chance to visit during my travels. They both remain high on my someday list. Continuing even higher up the hillside, and stopping for many breaks as it was now at the peak of the midday heat wave, I eventually reached my final must see destination at Hierapolis. St. Philips Matyrium, where St. Philip the apostle of Jesus was murdered for his faith by upside-down crucifixion. The Matyrium was built over the site of his death and supposed resting place in the fifth century and comprises of a chapel and subsidiary structures. It was one of the most important pilgrimage sites of its time. It’s under current excavation. I also visited the tomb within the structure which had been recently announced as the tomb of St. Philip himself. Although I am not entirely convinced the evidence is conducive enough for such a statement. Nevertheless it’s an exciting discovery, and an amazing place to have visited. The view from the site was astonishing.

Temple of Apollo

Plutonium Underworld Cave

Hierapolis Ampitheatre

St. Philips Tomb in the Matyrium

I was absolutely exhausted at this point and in need of some shade, relaxation and food. I went to the Antique Pool which is in the center of Hierapolis, here there were indoor restaurants and cafes with a very touristy resort vibe. After some fresh pomegranate juice and some lunch I decided to cool off in Cleopatra’s Pool. The pool was created during an earthquake which caused a huge crater in the earth and destroyed an ancient temple. Now you can swim in the warm spring water and snorkel around the huge ancient ruins. It was absolutely the coolest thing to see. Its name comes from the fact that Cleopatra and Mark Anthony where known to enjoy the Pamukkale tavertines. I swam around the small busy pool for hours just in awe of the columns and architectural remains that people were swimming around and suntanning on. I was slightly grossed out to see people drinking large quantities of the water which is rumoured to be healing, yuck! Think of how many kids pee in that pool daily?

Swimming with the ruins in the Antique Pool

As I left the pool I noticed many tanks of small fish, I was soon hurried over to look at them and was told that these were Dr. Fish. I had heard about these odd creatures, small fish which eat dead flesh and drill into sores to clean them and have healing properties. I couldn’t say no to such an odd experience, and since my feet were in a bad state after all the hiking I had been doing I soon found myself dunked into a tank with hundreds of fishies nibbling at my flesh. One actually made me bleed, but it was mostly just a ticklish feeling. A half hour later I had nice smooth feet and legs. With that I said farewell to Pamukkale, and was Cappadocia bound.

Dr Fish tank!

Aurora

Study Season and Cide Goobyes

Getting my ceramic study on.

After my return from the Avkat Workshop in Istanbul it was crunch time, the two week study season was well underway and there seemed to be an impossible amount of work to be done in such a small window of time. We had various visitors during the research season, archaeologists from the Sinope project who we visited earlier came down to see our collections for a day, and we had various specialists come in to go through our findings, including a Roman ceramic specialist who confirmed our original thoughts about the Roman and Late Roman presence and a local Roman ceramic tradition. I was told in the beginning that this part of the season was to ‘tie up all the lose ends’ and myself being a naive undergraduate believed it. These loose ends included finishing all the drawing that was left undone, finishing the scanning that was undone, finish the preliminary data basing that was undone, going through EVERY single ceramic sherd that was found in three years of surveying, studying it, matching it to the fabric collection, dating it, taking notes, and then imputing this information collected into an entirely new specialist data base.

Speaking of the word specialist, that is what I, an undergrad, who has never taken a class in Byzantine artifacts, material culture, archaeology, or hell, even a Byzantine history class, nor been to Turkey or seen firsthand any of the materials previously, was considered. I found it both quite laughable, but also a really great chance to prove myself and a huge learning experience. There is no better way to learn than to be thrown into something entirely. I had my own database for my own research, and was the only person at the project who had any dealings with the Byzantine materials, which they as prehistorians, lovingly referred to as post-interesting. I realised that I both loved having my own “research baby” of sorts, but that I was also way over my head and underqualified for the position. Luckily my professor back in Newfoundland was only an email away, as I had many questions for her. It was interesting being introduced as “our Byzantinist” and then having to explain that I’m still in my undergraduate in Eastern Canada.

I had mixed emotions about the study season; in the beginning I was in heaven, as research and study is really what I love to do. I spent my entire day looking through hundreds of bags, with thousands of sherds, examining each one, writing out data on each, questions they brought up, and potential patterns. I found it exciting, interesting, and it really got me thinking. The fact that I could tan in the sun on my balcony at the same time was just a plus. I especially loved 2009's ceramics as they were mostly decorative Byzantine ceramics that were easily diagnostic, compared to the current seasons finds which where undiagnostic late roman pieces. However, as the season began drawing to a close I realised just how much additional work was expected of me, and I found myself totally overwhelmed. I had just finished databasing nearly every single sherd found this field season, only to discover that there was a second database which needed to be done, not only on all of the same sherds, but for all of the sherds of every past field season. Three years in total. All I had to do was provide a date range in percentages for each sherd, but this still requires me to find each sherd and imput this data. Not to mention hopefully having the ability to date it. I have never been so stressed out in my life, and the fact that I had now been sick for weeks was not helping. Despite living in paradise I had almost forgotten the outdoors existed as I was living in the work room.

At the end of the season I still had not completed the final database, but I will continue this job in September from home as I have all of my notes with me. I visited the beach for a final farewell, and had one last epic bbq with the team, as we said our goodbyes to Cide and the project. In the morning we had hugs and goodbyes, I really loved everyone I worked with, and couldn’t have asked for a better summer or project to have been a part of. I was dropped off in Kastamonu with Michele who would be traveling with me as far as Ankara, and was then Pamukkale bound.

Aurora

Istanbul: Workshops and Turkish Baths

RCAC Building

Chesnuts Roasting

After greeting Lilith and an extremely suffocatingly hot sleep at my hostel, Aga Hammam, I awoke bright and early excited for my first Byzantine Archaeological Symposium being held at the Research Centre for Anatolian Civilizations. After weeks of field work dress it was nice to wear something professional looking, put some effort into my appearance, and of course get out of hiking boots and sport some real SHOES (my other true love). I’m glad I sorted out where the conference was located the day before, I had time to grab breakfast and walk to the RCAC, and was the first of the guests to arrive. This was great because I was able to introduce myself and talk to people one by one as they arrived, which is much less awkward than trying to bum my way into a conversation circle. I had been in contact with the workshop leader, John Haldon from Princeton, and he was quite surprised to find out I was an undergraduate. Most were expecting me to be a graduate student and kept asking me what my research was on… awkward. Everyone was extremely kind and inclusive, and eager to give me study advice and encouragement. I was genuinely impressed at how they tried to incorporate me, a lowly undergrad, into conversations and extended invitations for lunch and dinners. The conference was extremely small, around twenty five people, which gave it an intimate feel and allowed the format to be very conversational. It was really amazing to be included in a workshop with such phenomenal archaeologists and researchers, many of whom I have cited time and time again in my undergraduate essays. Hugh Elton of Trent, who has written on one of my favourite topics, Cilician Churches was there, and Joanita Vroom whose ceramic field guide I have been using as a bible in Cide, among many other well-known archaeologists. It this interesting to see the community that is medieval near eastern academic archaeology, everyone knows everyone through some sort of working connection.

Walking into the research centre was absolutely breathtaking, I thought I had to be in the wrong place because I have never seen such an amazing building for archaeology! You walk into an extremely modern spacious lobby with high vaulted ceilings, modern stylish furniture and glass floor, then you take a glass elevator past two beautiful huge outdoor balconies overlooking the Bosporus until you reach another floor with small lecture rooms and larger theaters. Just beautiful, clearly archaeology has money in it somewhere!

Outside the RCAC balconies

The purpose of the workshop was to bring together those studying the Late Roman to Byzantine periods in Turkey. Primarily, archaeologists who are currently working on active projects, to talk about method and scope issues, as well as provide comparisons and parallels from one regional project to the next. The conference was set around a particular project and site, the ongoing Avkat Survey project in North Central Anatolia, Turkey, and other sites were used as comparisons and additions to the central topics the Avkat group presented. There were representatives of Cadir Hoyuk on the Anatolian Plateau, where my professor Marica Cassis also works, as well as Ephesus, Sagalossos, Amureium, and other Turkish archaeological sites with Byzantine materials.

Among the people I met during the first day of the conference were three prehistory archaeologists from Cadir Hoyuk, who were there to read a paper written by my professor, Dr. Cassis. They knew about me from her and were so wonderful to me. I have been offered a chance to dig with them next summer, and I think it would be an amazing field season. The excavations on their project have been ongoing for many years, and a permanent dig house has been constructed on site. It’s in a remote, conservative inland village, but I have learned that dig atmosphere has much more to do with the people than the surrounding’s, and I could tell that they would be a delight to work for. Hilarious and very kind, making sure my time in Istanbul was going well, and taking me out for lunch. They really made the conference so enjoyable for me! I was completely expecting to sit alone in a corner for the weekend and just listening in on lectures, but I felt very included, and was able to make some great connetions with many prominent names in my field. It was an incredibly worthwhile trip.

Some of the lecture highlights for me was the lecture on Avkat Ceramics, Problems and Perspectives by Joanita Vroom as she identified many of my concerns with dating late Roman an early Byzantine pottery with little diagnostics, and I was also able to recognize some pieces in her collection. It was a great bit of confirmation that I was on the right track with my work in Cide. The presentation on Approaches to Field Survey, which talked about methods used in filed walking and survey models used at Avkat, and how survey style can affect the finds that are found and therefore the data collected and presented. Another standout was the final presentation in Paleo-environmental issues, which although partially went over my unscientific head, was extremely fascinating. It’s amazing both what can be done when it comes to recreating past climates, and how it can be applied to our own historical studies. All in all, this workshop got me really thinking.

Although the workshop took up most of my time in Istanbul I did get to expierence a little bit of the city. I was invited to lunch with John Haldon, Jim Newhard, Hugh Elton and the Cadir Hoyuk group the first day, where I had a very interesting baked meat pastery. The food was not my cup of tea but I was just happy to be eating and talking with such interesting people. The following day myself and the Cadir Hoyuk group returned there for lunch, instead ordering kofte (meat balls and pilaf) along with some amazing appetizers including circassian chicken (chicken and walnut puree) and lentil lofte (soft lentil balls). After each day I did some shopping and exploring the busy streets before supper, the first day of the workshop I retured in the evening for a public archaeology lecture, the second day I spent packing, and having dinner with Lilith before having to go back to Cide.

My final expierence of my mini Istanbul trip was a traditional Turkish Bath called a Hammam. My hostel owned a Hamam bath house and offered discounts to its guests. So myself and Lilith decided to see what all the talk was about. What a unique expirence. We were given plaid cloths to cover ourselves with as we enetered the Hamam, which was heated like a sauna. We were led to small ceramic sinks where we were washed with small silver basins and hot water and the laid on a central heating stone. After a half hour of lying on the stone, the bath woman came again, and began to scrub my body with a hard cloth while singing which ecoed through the domed room. I opened my eyes to see my skin covered in something... which I then realised was my skin which was peeled away. Kind of gross, she rinsed me off and to my horror I realised the tan I worked so hard for was GONE! But my skin has never been so soft or new. Next she proceeded to angrily massage me and yank at my joints. I was really nervous she was going to dislocate something. Finally the bath finished with a fragrant soap towel which she would bubble out and pour on your skin. After the bath we were rinsed with cool water and led into the cool air and given some Turkish tea to comlpete the expierence.... and an expierence it was! Something I am glad I tried, just to say I did... but something I will be perfectly fine never doing again!

Outside the Hammam

Aurora