This post will be bit of a mash-up of the first few days of surveying, which is the real reason I am here in beautiful Turkey. I have been on a number of archaeological excavations, but this is my first real surface survey experience, and it is a great project to learn about the surveying process and the information which can come from it. The project covers a large amount of land along the black sea coast, and some of the inland regions, and we are recording surface finds (artefacts), features (architectural structures ect) and landscape. I will get more detailed about the project later on in this blog, as I’m still getting comfortable with the project.
The representative from the Archaeological Office we were waiting for finally arrived, but it was late in the night so for our first day of work (Wednesday) the usual 5am wakeup call wasn’t possible. This means we all got to sleep in and left for the field in the afternoon after lunch instead. The entire crew was split into three teams, directing my team is Bleda During, an archaeologist from the University of Leiden who is focused on Chalcolithic and Neolithic archaeology. The team also includes myself, Büş' and Sercan who are art history students from Turkey, and Gwen who is an archaeology student also from the Netherlands. The teams separated to cover different areas of the survey. We spent our first day walking in a grid up a hilly area. I am glad I brought gaiters to wear because many of the bushes we are walking through are very thorny. Our goal was to count how many pottery or tile sherds we came across, recording visibility, and collecting pottery and tiles which have clear profiles, or have diagnostic features. We also record any standing features and photograph them, such as wells, columns and water basins, and stones with artificial markings or holes.
A typical work day begins with waking up at 5am, breakfast at 6am which is generally bread with various spreads (they have a version of Nutella which makes my life), boiled eggs, cheese and tomatoes. After breakfast we drive to our work area which is different each day and survey until 9:30 when we take a second breakfast, this consists of whatever we just grab from the breakfast table and put in a finds bag. We continue surveying until lunch at 12, and then leave the field for the day around 3. Lunch is pretty bland, just two buns, some of which have cheese or potatoes inside, and then watermelon which we slice up on the spot. We have a break to drive home and shower and then we continuing working until supper which is served at 7:30. There is lots of work to be done, such as data basing, scanning, drawing finds, washing finds, and various paper work. Supper is always really delicious, and makes up for breakfast/lunch. We normally have salad, a soup, and a main course. I really like the lentil soup as well as the kofte which are soft lamb meatballs, besides the pickled cabbage on top of the salad and the yogurt base soups I encountered also in Armenia, I like all of the Turkish cuisine.
Some highlights of surveying thus far: surveying fields with baby cows who like to sniff me while I draw roof tiles. All the locals who find us so interesting, point us into directions of other interesting finds or details we may not have noticed (we were photographing a stone wash basin and the locals told us how if you remove the moss there is a picture of someone with snowshoes on), and those who bring us herbs and fruits to snack on and bring home, people showing up with sliced watermelon when you are boiling hot and working is heaven. Finding cool stuff like lithics and pottery, most of what we find is Byzantine, much to the projects dismay as their focus is the prehistory of the area… but as a late antiquity and byzantine enthusiast, it keeps me busy and excited. My final highlight is just the hiking and exploring, and getting in touch with my inner adventurer.
Some of the lowlights of surveying thus far: It’s hot as fuck, although, I have managed to not burn and I haven’t worn sunscreen yet… mind you I am mostly covered head to toe with long pants, long sleeves and a wide brim hat and a buff around my neck. I got lost during a grid because the thorn bushes I was pushing through were taller than me. Bees fucking everywhere (I’m allergic, so not fun). Often English is the last language used on my team, so I am often a little bit confused. Thorn bushes in general suck, I am cut to pieces and it takes me a good 20 to dethorn my shoes… and the thorn pricks have turned into hives over my hands. Tics are everywhere, I’ve managed to not get one yet, but the director on my team has already so I’m sure it’s a matter of time. Surveying in torrential downpour, although nice and cool, the amount of water in my merrels is going to give me trench foot if I hike much more in the rain.
But all and all, I love it. This is exactly what I want to be doing with my life. I love being in such a beautiful place, being outside all day, and uncovering the history that I love. I really can’t imagine any other career for me. I love to excavate, but surveying is growing on me. I love getting to see new places every day, and getting to hike through rain and shine, and thick and thin… literally. Today alone I jumped over barbed wire fences, hiked through a river (waist deep and incredibly fast current), through bushes taller than me, along rock cliffs, and inside a cave. For the girl who lives in high heels and miniskirts most days, I am continually surprising myself with how natural this feels for me.
That is all for now, be prepared for many more surveying highlight/lowlight mashups, as well as the Aurora vs Rabies account.
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