Sunday, July 31, 2011

Extensive Survey: Castles and Caves

The intensive campaign on the survey project lasted two weeks and involved heavy field walking, covering as much ground as possible using all of our bodies in three large teams in a randomized landscape selection, to get a generalized overview of the landscape and its archaeological contents. The extensive campaign occurred in the following two weeks and was a more focused and concentrated campaign. Not every team or person went out to the field each day, as now there was an abundance of processing finds, data basing and other riveting desk jobs to be done, unfortunately as the only Byzantinist on staff (team of pre-historians), I was stuck at home more often than not to begin drawing finds, research, creating a fabric collection (different types of clay materials used), and preliminary data basing for the specialists ceramic database. The extensive survey is also fundamentally different in the fact that the locations are not randomly chosen, and the goal is not to cover as much territory as possible, rather to explore specific cultural locations and sites in depth, typically: castles, caves, graves and churches. These are places where already KNOW there was past human occupation and an archaeological presence, so each of these sites come with their own individual questions which need to be answered. Since I was in the field for only a few days of this surveying campaign I will break it down into the categories mentioned above, and tell you a bit about each type of site and the ones which I visited.


CASTLES
Castle’s in Turkey are called Kale’s, and are not necessarily always castles in the western sense, but is a category of fortified buildings that generally date to Byzantium. The Kales we have seen are in various states of ruin, some just flat rubble mounds, others just fortification bases which give a general outline, others with complete or near complete towers and walls. One of my favourite Kale’s was surveyed with Bleda’s team, which comprised of myself, Gwen, Bus and Sercan, I was able to date the Kale to the middle byzantine based on a few diagnostic ceramic sherds (pieces of pottery with tell-tale signs of their age) which fits with the general landscape of fortresses and castles in the area. This particular fortification was on top of a cliff steeply overlooking a river, and with excellent views of the mountains and hillside across the river. When thinking about fortified buildings it is important to think about the location and its views, these buildings were meant to protect something and act as look out posts, there locations were specifically chosen and we want to further look into what this factors may be, and what purpose they had. Some Kale’s look inland, indicating perhaps foe from the countryside traveling by foot or horse, others face the ocean and have wide views of the sea from the coastal cliffs which indicate the need to spot shipping fleets, and that perhaps attacks from sailing vessels were occurring. One of the team members on the project has been creating GIS maps which calculate the location of each of the fortifications surveyed and their viewpoints. This is crucial to being able to understand what land was protected and what land was considered a ‘blind spot’ and also where and who from protection was most need. The Kale we surveyed this particular day was an especially good lookout post which had full view of the rolling hills across the river valley, you can easily imagine watching out from a tower at neighbouring peoples coming across the hills. The Kale lacked any significant standing structures and was reduced primarily to rubble and ruined masonry, besides the foundation of a small rectangular room, and a large fortification wall. We spent the afternoon exploring the neighbouring areas, drawing, photographing, and mapping the Kale and its surroundings.

Sitting and mapping on the castle walls


CAVES
Caves are perhaps my favourite type of archaeological site, as my field school experience in the Areni-1 Cave in Armenia last year won over my heart. I was extremely happy to hear that the Cide project was just as enthusiastic about caves as myself and so many have been visited throughout the duration of the project, and many more have been attempted. Finding caves are not the easiest thing, even when you can see them from the roadside, as when you walk through the thick forests and begin to climb it is easy to get disoriented and the closer to get to the rock the harder it is to locate the cave. Many times we stumbled through forest and bramble just to have to turn back and hour or two later. I have a special interest in early Christian activity in caves, such as early monastery structures, cave churches, and hermit caves. This area of Turkey is littered with Hermit Caves, but unfortunately none of the caves I visited had any diagnostic features of a hermit dwelling. In fact all of the caves I visited were, archaeologically speaking, rather sparse. Caves that other teams visited proved to be extremely exciting with lots of Byzantine and prehistoric ceramics. My personal favourites was the one that took our team about three different attempts and many hours off thorny bramble, cliffs, and forest to get though, it was a small cave with a rock shelter, based on the location and directionality it would have been perfect for a hermit cave dwelling, which often face the same direction as churches (east), however there was no further physical evidence. We ate our lunch at the rock shelter, made a quick map and headed home. One day during the extensive I surveyed with Claudia’s team, which was a lot of fun! We found two caves with the help of local guides. Both caves were incredibly impressive, one had an extreme drop off and we threw a rock down it to hear how far, and decided it would be too dangerous to investigate without ropes and hooks. The second was equally as impressive, but much shallower and safer, we explored the main room, and took turns squeezing through a narrow whole which lead to a large open room and another area you could slide down with huge puddles of water. Only hit my head a few times. There was nothing archaeologically spectacular, but spelunking has become a love of mine so I was still in my glory.



Cave explorations!


Stalagmite broken off!


GRAVES –
Graves are important for obvious reasons, often they are still easily visible, they can tell us about population and location of past civilizations. We visited a few gravesites during the extensive including a Ottoman and Hellenistic grave. Ottoman graves are especially beautiful, they have sword shaped headstones with beautiful Arabic engravings and design, and on the top are marble carvings of the hats. These hats symbolize the persons status within the community, so we can also learn about the presence of various societal figures and learn things about whether there were military stations and much more! The Hellenistic (early Greek) grave was also very interesting, the tombs were scattered over a large piece of land that is now entirely forested (and totally tic infested!). Many of the graves have been robbed, and only the stone slabs remain.

Examples of Ottoman headstones at the Amasara museum


CHURHES
As someone who studies early Christian archaeology, churches are very interesting to me. However, we did not survey any substantial church remains or ruins, although we did number many spots were the possible presence of a church could have been. This is done by observing the amount of spolia we find in a certain village, and by rumours which the villagers tell us about churches and Christians. Spolia are church column bases and carved stone architectural features which often find their way all over hells creation, primarily in the flower gardens of the local villagers. Who says buildings don’t move? We did find a wall of what was likely a Byzantine chapel by the sea, after scaling the cliffs and almost falling in the water a million times I am glad we found something that day!

So, that should give you an idea about what the field extensive survey is like! We pick most of our locations based on word from locals about interesting sites, no one knows the land better! Some sites are also discovered by past seasons surveys, where sites were found and were later decided to be worth a revisit. However this is only what half the team is doing at any given time, as now we have also begun the artefact processing and databasing, so many of my days have been indoors at the Yali drawing pottery sherds, and typing up descriptions, dating, and munsel charting it up! It’s not all bad though, goo tunes, good company, and tons of snacks go a long way… it also means I can sneak into town for some delicious lunches and baklava!

Alright, that’s all folks.. next up will be goodbyes and our Sinope day trip!

Aurora

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Afternoon Away In Gideros


So once upon a time, many moons ago, I had a day off. Yes, I know the point of a blog is to write your daily endeavours, and I’m two weeks behind… so what? But back to the story, on this day off, the final day off with the other students myself and Fiona decided that we wanted to go to Gideros, a small picturesque town outside of Cide, known for its fish restaurants, beach, and beauty. We couldn’t convince anyone besides Gwen to come with us, as some of the survey teams surveyed the Gideros caves and therefore had seen all there was to see.


Gideros, view of the beach from our restaurant!


One of the team directors, Claudia, was able to drop us off outside of a pansion and restaurant and we began our day of relaxation from there. The restaurant was right on the water with a roof of vines with ripe grapes you could pick off and eat. It overlooked a quiet bay with a few small rowboats out on the calm waters, on the other side of the bay was the beach where we would spend the remainder of the day. Myself and Fiona ordered the fish we had been craving for weeks now and is so famous in the Black Sea, Gwen ordered beef Kofte (meatballs grilled) as she is not a fan of fish. The fish was small mackerel lightly battered and fried, absolute perfection on a plate! It reminded me of all the mackerel I would catch and eat as a kid in Nova Scotia. I would just die for some smoked mackerel right now! After our delicious supper and a quick photoshoot of the scenery we began our walk to the beach… but not before I stopped to change into my bathing suit in the pansion’s bathroom. Now by this point I am very used to peeing in a whole on the ground, so that is not what was so blogworthy about this bathroom visit. However, I did have a guest with me in the toilet, a very tiny and poisonous scorpion! Fiona who used the bathroom after me actually discovered it. I then had to go through my bag which had been sitting on the floor as I changed just to make sure none of his friends decided to come for a ride.


Fiona, me and fishies!

Vines!

As we begun to carry on our way I saw the ground beneath my feet move, inches from stepping on a long snake in sandals. Just our luck! The snakes in this area of Turkey, however, are not poisonous but our multi-legged friend was! The smaller the scorpion the more poisonous the sting!


Our bathroom companion

Although I have managed two weeks of intense hiking and mountain climbing through the Turkish heat, for some reason today the heat got to me and I felt like the road to the beach would never end. We walked the road overlooking the bay until we reached the other side, stopping to take the lovely photo you will see below!


The beach was not nearly as nice as Cide, but it was nice to expore and be somewhere new. Outside of the tourist area we felt a little out of place in our bikinis so we decided to further explore and find a more secluded spot to enjoy the sun and water. I think we drew even more attention to ourselves by scaling and climbing over the large rocks above the beach, we must have looked insane, but since this is what we do every day we work, it seemed quite natural. Eventually we found a nice spot with some large flat rocks to sit on. The water itself was perfect temperature, but visibility was poor and there were hundreds of jellyfish so I was the only one who made it into the waters, and I’ll admit my snorkelling endeavour was fairly short due to all the jellies. However it was just enough to refresh and all in all it was a lovely quiet day off! After our swim we headed home to finish our day with some Limmy’s Show, which has become the official show of the project. I suggest it to anyone who enjoys very random Scottish humour!

Swimming times in Gideros!

That’s all for no folks, next up the awaited post on Extensive survey highlights!

Aurora

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

A Virtual Cide Tour, Vikings Included.

The Yali - Home Sweet Home

I’ve apologised before for being late on updating my blog before, so although in blog world I have two and a half weeks left of work in Cide, as I type this I am about to go to bed to wake up for my last day of work on the Cide Archaeological Project. So it seems fitting that I take this post to reminisce on the lovely town of Cide, and life at the Yali Otel over the past wonderful weeks.

Cide is situated on the Black Sea coast of Turkey, it’s a small town of about 6,000 people and although it is still relatively unknown even among many Turks outside the Black Sea region, it is on the rise as a local tourist hub for vacationing Turks. Cide has naturally rocky beaches, which I had great plans to snorkel over, but I am sad to say I never made it to these natural beaches. Just minutes outside our hotel, however, is a big beautiful, artificial sand beach. This beach is perfect for everything but snorkelling since any life is covered with sand. I must say we work so hard that I didn’t get out swimming as often as I would have liked, and I am kicking myself for not making the most of the most beautiful waters I have ever set foot in. Nothing beats a refreshing swim, and floating in an aqua sea looking at the mountains. The beach itself was vacant when we first arrive, now it is home to hundreds of local tourists each day. From the bikini to the burka clad, it’s an interesting site!


Beach, before the swarms of tourists arrived!


Just outside the beach is a nightly market, selling grilled corn on the cob, grilled chestnuts, and gifts like carpets, beach toys, sun dresses in Cide’s traditional fabric and jewellery. A fifteen minute walk from the hotel will land you in the city centre which has more tourist shops, and other small stores, and some restaurants. It’s small and basic, but everything you need can be found. If you follow the beach there is a lovely walkway with fish restaurants and icecream stands. The harbour can be viewed from my hotel balcony and is a beautiful little cove with fishing boats and a lovely pier which dolphins can be spotted near! It’s a beautiful, calm location, and when you work all day you can appreciate the fact that there is nothing really to do besides enjoy the salt air, and perhaps take a walk or swim.

Peir in Cide which our hotel is in front of!

The Yali Otel is the hotel which is our home base, and the team members on the project are ever changing, meaning the nightly activities at the Yali have also changed over the weeks. I arrived at the beginning of the field season with all of the other students, whom I became great friends with. Many a night was spent having beers on one of the balconies overlooking the sun set over the black sea, or tucked inside watching some sub-titled movie, inappropriate documentaries on youtube (look up Married To the Eiffel Tower, and be prepared to be creeped out!), and reruns of the absolutely hilarious Limmy’s Show (a Scottish comedy). After my peers left I became the solo student on the projects, which meant nights got significantly quieter and rather lonely, although I have enjoyed some quiet time to walk and read. I am the only female left on the project besides the co-director, Claudia, whose husband, child and mother is also staying at the Yali, which means I now have a room all to myself. Sleeping alone is still weird to me, as there was a constant change over of roomates throughout the first four weeks. I began with two roomates: Bus and Fiona, then Tuce joined us, after Bus and Tuce left Lorraine joined the room, and when Fiona left Lilith joined us for a couple nights. I really enjoyed sharing my room, myself and Fiona nicknamed our room the Celtic Corner since we are both folk music loving girls from Scotland and New Scotland. This later changed into the Ghetto Corner, because we are just that hardcore. One of my favourite memories of the Yali was buying candles in town to stick into wine and beer glasses, lighting up the balcony so we could read by the candle light, or just using the balcony as a barre to do some ballet warm ups while watching the still harbour with its little boats.


Me and Fiona's creation: Balcony all lit, some folky tunes playing.. perfect for reading and notice the railing is perfect ballet barre hight?

On my balcony!

My final Cide memory I will leave you with is Cide Festival and the infamous Neon Pirate Viking ship experience:

Every day from the field we drove by the always intriguing and entirely out of place “Fair” in Cide, which consisted of a kids merry go round, bumper cars, and a swinging ship called The Viking, which was orange and had pirates on it… as all Viking ships would. After much harassment by Fiona and myself, the boys, Maarten and Sami reluctantly went to the fair with us. We boarded onto the ship, five of us into one row and pulled back the safety bar. At first it was nice, then it was fun, and then I was absolutely scared shitless as we almost turned upside down. I could hear the machine creeking with age, and could feel my body lift out of the seat and slip past the bar. I screamed so hard that the guy let me off while the rest continued. I don’t think we have ever laughed so hard! Next, myself and the girls tried our hand at the bumper cars, which we could barely manoeuvre so there wasn’t so much bumping involved. Definitely a laugh.


THE VIKING. Be afraid.

Although Cide fairly quiet, with mostly vacant streets, one time of year gets extremely busy. Cide Festival is a four day event with various games, events, and concerts. I felt like I was walking through the Halifax boardwalk during the buskers with so many people congregated on the boardwalk and streets. Although we ventured out to see one of the concerts briefly, and some went to see the event which includes a bunch of guys swimming across the cove and climbing up a greased pole to retrieve a flag, we otherwise didn’t partake in the festivities. We all go to bed fairly early since we work such long days. Luckily I sleep very sound, because the music went late into the night. However, this isn’t suprising since I rarely awake for the sounds of nightly prayers which play through speakers from each mosque in the city, and it seems every second night there is a firework display as well!

Sami, Maarten, Fiona and me, so excited to be at Cide Fest! haha

So this has been home for the past weeks, up next will be a quick post about our day off in Gideros!


Aurora

Thursday, July 21, 2011

Yes, My Office Is Better Than Yours


Welcome to my happy place.


Since words can't describe the places I work, I thought a little photo essay would be the best way to get my message across, that message being: If you don't work in archaeology, you should probably deeply reconsider your career choice, because I can't imagine a more exhilarating job. These pictures were all taken on the job, during my work day, which is why I am quite certain I have the best office in the world.


Are you jealous yet?










LinkHow about now?






Okay, so SOMETIMES your office may be more glamorous than mine, but does your office include an always stocked fridge of beer and vodka? A spoon full of vodka helps the data-basing go down!







Next up, an inside look at the hustle and bustle of Cide, the Yali Otel lifestyle, and the ever exciting Cide Festival Pirate Viking Ship expierence. Stay tuned.

Aurora